Corsica – mountains and curves, in the middle of the sea

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Beep, beep, beep, 6.00 am. Oh man, this sh…. alarm clock. I’m still flat and tired. The thought of just staying in bed is tempting. But the anticipation of is greater. Corsica, this potpourri of mountains, wild landscapes and countless bends in the middle of the sea. So get out of bed.

Let’s go then, two days to the ferry

The cat wash is quickly done and after a few sips of coffee, the spirits slowly return. I quickly get the Tiger out of the garage, load the suitcases and tie down the luggage roll. GPS in the holder, tank bag in its place, coffee machine off and front door locked. Ready to go. Stop! Let the Weltsozia mount up. Done! After a few hours, I reach and the border with . Right at the border crossing I see my friend Douwe driving past, who has spent a few days on the Glas Pass. It’s funny, we haven’t managed to ride together or meet up all year, but here we run into each other. That has to change somehow. We reached our stage destination in Lenzerheide in the rain and ended the day with a delicious dinner in a cozy restaurant. When we looked at the bill, we suddenly realized where we were. I’ll probably never get used to the prices in Switzerland.

Passes in the snow and palm trees on Lake Como

The rain had cleared, giving us a view of the mountains all around, powdered with fresh snow. Thankfully, the road at Splügen had been cleared and so the journey to Lake Como was a breeze and quickly completed. It got warmer and sunnier with every meter the ferry sailed south across the lake. After arriving in Bellagio, the Gore-Tex shell was stripped off and stowed in the panniers. They were to stay there until we returned home. From Bellagio, we continued along the palm-lined shores of the lake to Como. As the stretch ahead of us to the ferry in Savona is not exactly one of the best motorcycle routes, we decided to use the highway. So off we went through the middle.

Delay and a stormy crossing

We reached the somewhat desolate ferry port of Savona in the early evening and made ourselves comfortable on the terrace of a small bar in the port. With a view of the packed motorcycle, of course. Somehow it was strange though, time was moving on and the ferry was nowhere to be seen. So I asked around. Due to a storm over Corsica, the ferry was delayed considerably. Arrival still open. Great! The 23:00 departure was probably not going to happen. However, when the ferry docked at around 11:30 p.m., things went very quickly and at 1:00 a.m. it was time to cast off. The previous loading of the motorcycles left us with a slightly queasy stomach. The “lashing skills” of the Italian deckhands consisted of an old lashing strap that was knotted to a footrest and a tube on the side of the boat. If that goes well. A quick but cold beer later, we went to bed.

What a night

The swell and the rolling of the ferry made for a restless night and drove me out of bed before sunrise. We were already cruising off Corsica with the wind still strong and waiting for the pilot to arrive to take us into port. After entering the harbor, all the motorcyclists waited in front of the access to the vehicle deck for it to open. What will it look like down there? After the swell and the bikes that were effectively not lashed down? But the worry was unfounded, the motorcycles were all undamaged and where they belonged. After unloading the ferry, which in conjunction with 2 other ferries led to chaos in the harbor, we headed north.

Cap Corse

We had booked a small apartment not far from the old town of Corte as our base for the next few days. Given the early hour of the morning, we decided not to drive straight to Corte and to take a detour around a few bends via Cap Corse. Passing the countless Genoese towers that stand along the coastline of the island, we first headed towards the Cap on the eastern side. The wind was still gusty here and we witnessed a BMW GS being knocked over by the wind while the rider was taking a few photos. As soon as we rounded the cape, the wind picked up again and I had to push the bike towards the rock face a few times to avoid being blown over the cliffs with the whole load. The road here follows the coastline exactly and has great potential for vertigo. The rest of the route towards Corte took us through burnt-out valleys. Remnants of the forest fires that raged here a few weeks ago.

Restonica

We spent the evening in the cosy old town of Corte with wine and delicious Corsican specialties. After the wind had finally calmed down, the sun shone from a steel-blue sky the next morning and drove us out of bed early. As the accommodation was located at the entrance to the Restonica Valley, we were able to start our motorcycling day right on the doorstep. This valley winds its way up through pine forests and rocks at an altitude of almost 1,200 m and features small lakes and a waterfall at the end. Given the amount of walking required, we decided to skip this highlight and turn the bike around without further ado. We headed towards the Asco Valley along a winding road, which is blessed with incredible grip throughout Corsica.

Asco

The valley winds uphill along rugged cliffs and a deep gorge and ends at 1,300 m in Haut-Asco, where you can still admire the remains of a ski lift. On the way back, we stopped in the mountain village of Asco to enjoy delicious crepes made from chestnut flour and topped with hearty bacon and cheese. The small restaurant has tables and chairs practically in the middle of the road and offers a fantastic view over the valley while you eat. After our refreshment, we rode briskly back to Corte. The Place Pascale Paoli was bathed in evening sunshine and, together with a glass of chilled rose, an ideal place to end the day. If there is a heaven for motorcyclists, then it is surely Corsica.

Col de Vergio and Spelunca Gorge

If I thought yesterday was a blast, I don’t know how to describe this day. At almost 1,500 m, the Col de Vergio is the highest pass in Corsica. To make a long story short, the ride up there was absolutely beautiful. We first passed through a wild canyon, followed by pine forests where Corsican pigs lay or ate at the side of the road. As soon as we crossed the pass, chestnut forests and the breathtaking Spelunca gorge followed. An absolute blast, with impressions that cannot be captured in a picture. In Porto, a small town with a picturesque natural harbor, we spontaneously chose the road to Osani. This choice was rewarded with a great route and what felt like a thousand bends. Here the tires could prove their grip on the flanks. We returned to Porto via the impressive rocky landscape of the Chalanche to our destination for the next three days near Ajaccio.

The countryside around Ajaccio

The following days were dedicated to relaxation and the tours around Ajaccio only covered moderate distances. Small mountain roads through eucalyptus forests and fantastic views over the bay of Ajaccio were waiting to be enjoyed. The excavation site in Filitosa and the Col de Gradella also provided variety. The lonely country roads were lined with evidence of the Corsicans’ national sport. Shooting at stationary targets in the form of road signs. Outside the villages, there wasn’t a single sign that wasn’t riddled with holes. Strange national pride.

Col St. Eustache – An insider tip

All the tours on these days had one thing in common: the Col St. Eustache! This is a red granite landscape with unparalleled views and routes. The 20 km on both sides of the pass were definitely tough and left clear marks on boots and footrests. Funnily enough, the col and the area around it are not described in any of our guidebooks. So it must be an insider tip.

The Western Alps – Ingenious way home

After strolling around the island for a few more days, we headed home via the Western Alps. The crossing to Nice flew by in the sunshine and comfortable deckchairs. Unloading was quite quick, but it took a while before the ferry port released us into the city traffic of Nice. So let’s get out of the city and head for Piedmont. As it was getting late, we skipped the Col de Turini, the hallowed ground of the Monte Carlo Rally. However, the alternative route via the Col de Braus made up for this completely. The route then took us via Sospel and the Col de Bruis through a wild gorge landscape towards Limone. As the Col de Tende is closed from the French side, only the tunnel remained. But a highlight was to follow on the other side. The only thing left to do was to quickly drop off the luggage at the accommodation we were heading for.

Blue hour on the Tende/Tenda

The pass is accessible from the Italian side. The road, partly on gravel, passes the entrance to the Ligurian border ridge road to Fort Central. Fort Central is located at 1,900 m and is one of the countless testimonies to the military madness of days gone by. The remaining light of the setting sun created a unique atmosphere. The blue hour was also indescribable thanks to the clear air. However, before darkness finally took over, we descended quickly. A delicious dinner, wine and a crackling open fire were already waiting in the Albergo.

Long on the wish list – the Col d Angel

The next morning awaited us sunny and fresh – it was September 21st after all – with sparkling air like a fine Prosecco. On the way to our next stage destination, we were to take on the Col d Angel. Our landlady asked if I even knew how high the pass was and how cold it was up there at this time of year, and we were released from her care. Not without a little prayer and her best wishes, of course. At 2,744 m, the Col d Agnel/Colle del Angelo is the highest cross-border pass in the Alps. At the top of the pass, we enjoyed the surrounding panorama in glorious sunshine and a snack. We had barely shifted a few gears when the Col d’Izoard was waiting for us. Still under the impression of the Casse Desert, with its bizarre rock needles and scree fields, we reached the Refuge Napoleon shortly afterwards. Unfortunately there was no room available, so we continued on. In Briancon we were rewarded with a small auberge. The terrace overlooks Briancon and the owner not only cooks himself, but also has a recommendation from Gaults Millau.

Passes and more passes – Western Alps compact

With a steel blue sky and fresh air, a few real highlights awaited us. After taking in the Col du Lautaret almost as we flew past, we continued on to one of the most beautiful passes in the Alps. The Col du Galibier, our absolute favorite. After a quick coffee at the refuge below the pass, we set off downhill again. Col du Telegraphe, Col de L’Iseran and Col du Petit Saint Bernard followed in quick succession. On the descent into the Aosta Valley, we decided to make a detour to Courmayeur and marvel at the Italian side of Mont Blanc. At the end of the day, the sat nav showed a total of 10,100 meters of ascent and 11,000 meters of descent. And that for just under 300 km.

Black Forest and then off home

Over dinner in Aosta, we pondered the route ahead. Continue through Switzerland? Towards Lake Como? South ? After two weeks of vagabonding and in view of the prices in Switzerland, which we would have traveled through for at least two days, we decided to head home via the . So we quickly crossed the Great St. Bernard to Martigny and headed purposefully towards . After crossing the Rhine, we headed into the Black Forest on small and winding roads. The Wehratal, or rather the Wehraschlucht gorge, was very impressive. Thanks to the internet, we quickly found a real gem to feast on and spend the night. After a delicious meal, the day ended with a digestif and a cigarillo in a comfortable armchair in front of the fireplace. Tomorrow we are heading straight home. And as always when we’re on the road, plans were made for the next tour. You can read about it here later….